BARONS

A report on the dangerous and disgraceful state of the American food industry.

In his nonfiction debut, Frerick provides in-depth profiles of seven American food companies and the families who own and run them. The author charts how the growth of these companies has exploded in the last century: Politicians have been bought, regulatory laws have been gutted or completely repealed, and “seven food industry barons” have each “built an empire by taking advantage of deregulation to amass extreme wealth at the expense of everyone else.” Frerick writes about the meatpacking giant JBS, noting that in 2017 investigators from the Brazil government accused some of the company’s employees of bribing meat inspectors to allow tainted meats to be served in public schools. He also discusses the Cargill-MacMillan family, owners of Cargill, Inc. (the largest private company in America), identifying their business as one of the “huge, regional-scale corporations owned by just one or a few families who use their political connections to overpower both local democracy and local businesses.” His overview of the tiny handful of companies that provide the vast majority of all kinds of food for Americans naturally includes an analysis of Walmart, the mega-company that, per Frerick, “has triggered a race to the bottom in every imaginable way” by playing a central role in shifting food-shopping to a “private, for-profit space.” Frerick’s prose throughout is both direct and masterfully controlled, with every point supported by extensive references and notes. This is no alarmist screed but rather a careful, systematic, and utterly damning demolition job—an exquisitely informed exposé. In these pages, the author unflinchingly explores the graft involved in suborning politicians, the guile used in circumventing the few regulations that do exist, the staggering cruelty of livestock farming, and sobering societal ramifications (“one’s income will increasingly be reflected in one’s waistline”); the result is quietly devastating.

A genuinely revelatory look at mass food production in the United States.