CUSTODIANS OF WONDER

The eccentric, the cryptic, and the heartwarming find a place in this collection of cultural marvels.

In a world that at times seems to be plummeting into the future without much thought, it can be enlightening to take the occasional glance backward. This is the premise of Stein’s book, in which the BBC journalist embarks on a globetrotting journey to find cultural traditions both obscure and wonderful. In the mountains of Sardinia, he samples su filindeu, also known as “the threads of God,” a type of pasta so rare and delicate that only three women in the world know how to make it. In Peru, he meets the last man capable of weaving the grass bridges that tied together the Incan empire. In a corner of Wales, he speaks to a beekeeper who maintains the custom of “telling the bees” the news of the day, which stretches from major events to local gossip. The bees seem to appreciate it. Just as touching is his visit to a tree, deep in a German forest, that has its own mailing address: necessary, as generations of people have written to it in an attempt to find love and happiness. Perhaps his strangest encounter is with a family in India that, for centuries, has been making mirrors from a secret metal alloy. The mirrors are reputed to reveal the true persona of anyone brave enough to look into one. These are remarkable narratives, and Stein explores them with due respect. “They remind us that culture is born slowly through a million tiny, personal moments,” he writes. “When one seemingly insignificant wonder fades, an irretrievable part of our humanity vanishes with it.”

Stein’s affectionate memoir mixes traditions, rituals, and good food, adding up to a thoroughly enjoyable read.