SENTIMENTAL SWEETS

A self-taught baker brings an anonymous Depression-era cookbook up to date, with a history lesson for dessert.

Simpson, a nurse and home baker from Dixie, Georgia, was scouring eBay for old cookbooks when she found a handwritten book of dessert recipes from 1932. A “nail-biting bidding war” and $75 later, the cookbook was hers, but recreating the Bundt cakes, tortes, and cookies in its pages wouldn’t prove to be as simple as just following instructions. The recipes were essentially “lists of ingredients” without the cooking times, oven settings, or precise directions included in modern recipes. The author resolved to painstakingly restore the original recipes in her Florida kitchen, converting vague measurements and directions into more precise numbers. The result is a cookbook full of creative curiosities, from “Potato Cake” to “Seafoam Candy” to “Eggless-Butterless-Milkless Cake.” Each recipe is introduced with a short preamble describing the dessert, and many offer details about the delicate process of learning how to make them in a modern kitchen. Along the way, Simpson notes her surprise at what she’s uncovered—despite what contemporary readers might expect, the original recipe book is scant on pies and heavy on butter and eggs for a cookbook penned at the height of the Great Depression. She provides the reader with a short popular history of the era, as well as background information on the use of lard, woodburning ovens, and Bundt pans. While the economic context might strike some readers as oversimplified, the author is a thoughtful and entertaining historian. Simpson’s modernized instructions are clear and well written, despite some unnecessary repetitions (she repeats across several recipes, for instance, that you can thin an icing by adding more liquid, or thicken it by adding more powdered sugar). Her “tips for better baking” make the work approachable to a wide audience of home bakers (several of the more challenging recipes start with instructions on how to “plan ahead”). This is a charming, intriguing book of desserts in which the author invites readers into her process and on her journey through baking history.

A thoughtful, unique cookbook with a cherry on top.