An examination of the modern history of Mount Everest and its guiding industry.
In this enlightening book, Cockrell, an adventure writer for Outside, Men’s Journal, and other publications, expertly traces the industry behind the majesty. As the author notes, the media has presented the mountain in a variety of ways: “Some painted Everest as the tragic, overcrowded mess, some the awe-inspiring natural wonder, some as the ultimate symbol of human triumph.” Furthermore, the narrative is often “hijacked,” presenting a “skewed view of the mountain, especially what it’s like today.” In order to tell the complete story, writes the author, we must acknowledge “uncomfortable facts and inconvenient truth.” At the center of much of Everest’s historical controversy is the relationship between Westerners and the Sherpa people. During the mid-1980s, climbing Everest became “more of a logistical challenge than technical one,” as climbers began taking advantage of technology to increase their chances of reaching the summit. Over time, Western guide companies began welcoming people with more diverse backgrounds and less technical climbing experience. As the mountain began to become overcrowded, Sherpas, “indisputably…the backbone of the industry,” began to feel increasingly marginalized and unappreciated, particularly by Westerners. Tensions came to a head in the mid-2000s when a series of tragedies befell the mountain, resulting in Sherpas demanding a voice and seeking reforms. From Texan Richard Bass to Nepal-born Nirmal Purja, Cockrell details the gnawing desires that have brought climbers to the top of the world, offering illuminating firsthand accounts and perspectives of mountain climbers, guides, Sherpas, and anyone else involved in the Everest industry. Fortunately, a promise of hope exists, as Cockrell relates: “For most guides, Western and Sherpa alike, that appears to be the feeling in Everest base camp today, that integration and cooperation, not elimination, is the way forward.”
An astute history and powerful cautionary tale.